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GUATEMALA - Mayan and Spanish Colonial heritage.

 

HOW TO GET THERE
We flew into Guatemala City, and then made the journey to and from Flores by plane. All other journeys were by minibus or taxi, apart from boating on Lake Atitlan. As an alternative arrival you could take a Pullman Coach Bus to Antigua out of Copan Ruinas in Honduras that takes about 7 hours if you want to make this part of a longer Central American trip. (See the separate post on Nicaragua and Copan Ruinas.)

You will need to check for the current health restrictions that may be in place for your arrival in Guatemala.

ROUTE

WHERE TO GO SAFELY

Guatemala does not have a clear rating for safety/security, so you will need to check your own Government's travel advisory page for the latest updates.  Most criminal activity is not aimed at tourists but attacks have happened. Although this should not put you off, you need to be aware and take precautions. There are issues about where and when you shouldn't go to particular places, but you will be well advised by your hosts and other helpful sources such as tourist information while you are there. The people are friendly  and welcoming. Our trip was without problems, but we stuck to well trodden tourist routes and destinations, and used local guides for short trips away from these locations. We also choose not to hang about anywhere late at night, preferring to relax in our accommodation after taking an early evening meal.  

GUATEMALA CITY

On arrival in Guatemala City, you should arrange to be met by a taxi or shuttle booked through your hosts or a trip organiser like Hotels.com.  An overnight stay in Zona 10 will ensure you are set up with good options on restaurants and other facilities. Also you are in close proximity to enjoy a visit to two major archaelogical/ethnographic museums, which are within walking distance or a brief taxi ride - the Museo Popol Vuh de Arquelogia which has an extensive collection of Mayan statues, ceramics and other artefacts; and the Museo Ixchel de Traje Indigena which has a fantastic collection of indigenous dress showing the variety of colourful costumes adopted by different villages/areas within the country. These 2 museums offer displays of a quality and quantity that cannot be seen elsewhere on this tour, so it is well worth your while to spend a couple of hours here to start off your trip. We stayed in a very nice, friendly hotel in Zona 10.

FLORES

The flight from Guatemala City to Flores takes just over an hour. You can go by minibus but the journey is at least 8.5 hours, and can be more depending on road conditions or other problems that are sometimes encountered like breakdowns.
FLORES - an island on Lake Peten Itza
Flores is a delightful little town perched on an island in Lake Peten Itza, linked by a causeway to the mainland. Tourists are well catered for here, and usually linger for a night or so before the onward journey to the Mayan ruins at Tikal. The lakeshore walk round the town's island will only take half an hour, even allowing for stops for photos or other diversions. The town has a lot of character for a place its size with many of the wooden or adobe houses being gaily painted, and a small twin-domed cathedral perched on the hill at the central plaza giving nice views over the lake. We stayed in a small hotel with a room including its own veranda looking out over the lake - a lovely spot.

TIKAL

The journey by taxi/minibus from Flores to Tikal will take about an hour and a half, but you need to be aware that if you arrive before 4pm you will have to pay for that day's entry to the National Park, arrive after 4pm and you will get a ticket that will cover you for the following day. We spent a couple of nights in a hotel within the park that had its own restaurant and swimming pool. This gave us enough time to visit not just the main temple complex and museum, but also the trails on the outer perimeter in order to see the full extent of the ancient city and take in the full jungle atmosphere. 
TIKAL NATIONAL PARK - Mayan temple
We got up early with the hotel's guide to climb one of the pyramids to experience the jungle awaking to the sunrise - the noise of the howler monkeys was spellbinding. Most people arrive and leave Tikal within the day, but they then miss a lot of what this unique place can offer. We saw wildlife including coatis, monkeys, wild turkeys and toucans on our walks, as well as the very atmospheric ruins on the quieter paths at the outer perimeter of the park.
TIKAL NATIONAL PARK - Coati & Monkey
FLORES - GUATEMALA CITY

We went back to Flores airport for the return flight to Guatemala City in a shuttle bus arranged by our hotel at Tikal. Back at the airport in Guatemala City you will be able to readily pick up one of the shuttle buses going to Antigua, which take about an hour to get there. If the timings are not right for your connections then you may need an extra night stop in Guatemala City before the onward journey to Antigua. We needed to do this, and so we stayed at the same hotel in Zona 10, which then helped arrange our transfer to Antigua.

ANTIGUA

Antigua is a gem amongst Spanish colonial cities with its cobbled streets, preserved colonial-era houses and grand churches, monasteries and other public buildings. We stayed in a traditional house with nice grounds and fabulous views of Volcan Agua from the  veranda outside our upstairs room.

ANTIGUA - Catedral with Volcan Agua on right.

The city also has a number of ruins that have well kept remnants and beautiful gardens - a testament to the earthquakes that have affected the area in the past. This is a very lively city, particularly at the weekends when the locals and visitors from across the country descend onto the streets.

ANTIGUA - Street performer

Three volcanoes which are all over 12,000 ft. overlook the city - Fuego, which is active and sends out frequent puffs of smoke, Agua and Acatenago. We went on a trip via taxi which our host organised for us that took us round the villages and markets in the valley, with a visit to an eco-farm  and to a temple run by the Maximon or San Simon cult. 

ANTIGUA - Maximon (San Simon) temple

This religion appears to be a cross between Mayan and Catholic beliefs and involves paying homage to an effigy of a man who resembles a colonial settler. Eggs, fruit and other items are incinerated in piles outside the temple by shamans. Inside there are plaques giving thanks for miracles that have been performed, and the effigy is offered cigars and alcoholic liquor by worshippers.

ANTIGUA - Coffee mill - with beans drying in the sun 

We also enjoyed a trip round a coffee mill where we learned how complicated the coffee business is from the picked coffee cherries to a roastable bean of high quality. The mill used traditional methods and some old machinery. In the main factory area the newest piece of equipment was 50 yrs old!

 PANAJACHEL

It is a 2 hour minibus ride from Antigua to Panajachelpassing through some fabulous countryside and interesting small towns/villages. Panajachel sits on the edge of Lake Atitlan which is a large volcanic crater lake 5,000 feet up, and surrounded by volcanoes standing a further 7,000 feet above lake level. 

PANAJACHEL - Lake Atitlan

This is a spectacular setting which you can enjoy both from the shore and in boat trips to villages around the perimeter. What Panajachel lacks in architectural merit it more than makes up for with a slightly hippy quirkiness with very good facilities for the traveller.

SANTIAGO ATITLAN - Saturday market/church goers in traditional dress

We  visited the Saturday market at Santiago Atitlan by boat, and then went into the impressive church just as the locals in traditional dress were leaving after the morning service. A plaque inside the church commemorates the slaughter of their Oklahoma born priest by the army, who died along with many other locals during the civil war that raged for more than 30 years up until 1998.

PANAJACHEL - Reserva Natural Atitlan

Back in Panajachel we enjoyed the trail around the Reserva Natural Atitlan just a short walk out of town. This has a bird reserve, butterfly collection, monkeys and other animals in beautiful natural surroundings including a waterfall.

It's about a three hour minibus ride back to Guatemala City for your flight out.

Have a Safe journey home!

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