ANCIENT THAILAND - A slow rail trip

THAILAND - A slow rail trip through Ancient Cities.
Rail travel - what’s not to like? Take it nice and slow with overnight stops and linger in some fantastic ancient cities on the journey from Chiang Mai to Bangkok.
Pictured SUKHOTHAI - Historical Park

HOW TO GET THERE

Coming from outside Thailand you'll need to fly into Bangkok unless you're coming overland from elsewhere in Asia, in which case you could start in Chiang Mai and just do the rail trip. There is also an overnight sleeper train that does the journey between Bangkok and Chiang Mai in 15 hours if you prefer to do that rather than the domestic flight.
ROUTE

This is mainly a rail trip, with a flight from Bangkok to Chiang Mai at the beginning. Both of these cities feature heavily in the itinerary for the trip and are properly destinations in their own right. The additional main features of the trip are on the rail journey between the two major cities, visiting the towns of Phitsanulok and Lop Buri, and the former Thai capitals of Sukhothai and Ayutthaya along the way.

You'll need three weeks or so to fully enjoy the trip, but you could squeeze it into two weeks if you cut down the number of days you spend in each location.

BANGKOK

When you fly into Bangkok you will probably need at least one night's lay over before catching your connecting flight to Chiang Mai. If you take a couple of nights instead you can fit in a day's sight seeing - a great way to start your trip, and very relaxing too.

BANGKOK - Long Tail Boat on canal system

Start by taking the water taxi to the Renjee stop to visit the Flower Market. From there go higher up the river to Phra Ahit in order to pick up a 90 minute cruise in a long-tail boat on the Chao Phraya River and the linked canal network.

On your return to Bangkok after the rail trip you can take in some of the other many sights the City has to offer.

CHIANG MAI

Take the hour long flight from Bangkok to Chiang Mai. This is a really nice, walkable City with lots of interesting features and nearby attractions.

CHIANG MAI - flower festival parade

If you get there for around the time of the annual flower festival and Chinese New Year in early February then you’re in for a special treat.

There's lots to see in City, including daily markets, and street markets every weekend ('walking streets'). There are many Wats (Buddhist temples), both ancient and more modern, with each one different, ornate and decorative. A trip on the Pang River will give you a different aspect to the City and a chance to enjoy some of the countryside.

You can get further out with a minibus trip provided by one of the local tour companies to the Golden Temple of Wat Phra That Doi Suthep that stands 1000 feet above Chiang Mai, which will also include a visit to one of the nearby village markets.

Golden Temple near Chiang Mai

Other excursions will need a taxi ride round, to the fan/parasol factory at Bo San (9km from town) and on the return journey visiting craft shops selling silver and silk products.

PHITSANULOK

It is a 6 hour train ride down from Chiang Mai in the Highlands to Phitsanulok. Most of the journey is across the agricultural plain where you will see many rice fields, agricultural workers and some buffalos and egrets. There are half a dozen stops along the way at beautifully maintained rail stations, decorated with flowers and attended by smart, and friendly staff. Snack sellers are set up on the platforms and also parade up and down the carriages throughout the journey.

In Phitsanulok the best place to stay is down by the river, which has a nightly market with many restaurants along the river bank.

PHITSANULOK - Nan River

The town itself is a little nondescript but has a notable Wat that is very important in the Buddhist religion, and the Sergeant Major Thawee Folk Museum which has interesting local cultural objects and displays. Leaving the museum you will also be able to visit the nearby Buddha brass foundry and the garden birds of Thailand aviary. The municipal buildings have an unusual display of roosters in the forecourt, which also appear in various locations around the town. This is very much a local town rather than a tourist destination and we were stopped several times by schoolchildren wanting to interview english speakers for a project. The main purpose of staying In Phitsanulok is to get to the Ancient Thai Capital of Sukhothai.

SUKHOTHAI

You'll need a taxi ride out to the Phitsanulok bus station for the trip out to Sukhothai then grab a tuk tuk to get to the ancient city.

SUKHOTHAI - Ancient Capital of Thailand

It will be worth negotiating a rate for the return journey with your driver, including shuttling round the site itself as its too large to manage getting round on foot. The drivers know the site well and will stop for you to explore the prime viewpoints. The temple ruins and statues are surrounded by lakes and well-kept park grounds. Earlier in the day it is cooler and quieter, and you can fully enjoy the atmosphere of this unique place.

LOP BURI

Back on the train it is a 4.5 hour journey to Lop Buri, a provincial capital and the site of a former kingdom dating back more than1,000 years. There is a festival in February honouring the medieval King Narai during which the town is decorated with flowers and illuminations and there are evening performances of dance and music.

This festival is very much a local occasion with the schoolchildren taking a major part, and families will all dress up in traditional costume, with tourists not being much in evidence. This again is very much a typical Thai town but enjoyably different to the headline destinations. You will be made to feel very welcome. A couple of nights here will suffice before you move further on.

LOP BURI - derelict temples

The town is noted for the many macaque monkeys that climb all over the derelict temples and many other structures and objects in parts of the town. They can be a nuisance but they will usually keep to themselves unless they think they can get a snack from you.

LOP BURI - monkey on street sign

AYUTTHAYA

ATUTTHAYA - Wat Chaiwatthanaram at sunset

It is just a short train ride from Lop Buri to Ayutthaya. Again, if you can, stay on the river which is very beautiful.

A late afternoon cruise will allow you to enjoy several visits to Wats along the river, with the special treat of catching the sunset at Wat Chaiwatthanaram. You may also see elephants that are kept on the river bank or spot a kingfisher.

AYUTTHAYA - Fallen Buddha statue head caught in tree roots

The Historical Park, where you can see the old City ruins, contains many gems including the head of a Bhudda trapped in the roots of a Banyan Tree. The park has beautiful lakes, ruins and many varieties of birds big and small. This is a smaller historical park than the one at Suhkothai, and it is easier to get round on foot. There are also numerous spectacular Wats elsewhere nearby, including one with an enormous reclining Buddha, and another with many lion statues.

BANGKOK

Returning to the modern capital of Thailand, your train will pull into the grandiose central station an hour and a half after leaving Ayutthaya. Now you're really spoilt for choice in this vibrant City that seamlessly blends the ancient and modern. There are more than enough things to interest the most demanding traveller on a handful of separate visits if you're fortunate enough to get back here after your first trip.
To get around you've got a choice of subway and elevated sky trains/boat/road travel. Of these the waterways are well worth the effort to seek out. These are some of the things we enjoyed seeing:

The Grand Palace and the linked royal chapel Wat Phrae Kaew -temple of the golden Buddha(note dress code applies)
Wat Pho adjacent to the Royal Palace
Jim Thompson's House- museum and handicraft demonstrations
Wat Suhat for its beautiful murals
Wat Arun
Chatuchak Weekend Market
Siam Square & MBK shopping mall
Chinatown
Golden Palace(at night).

Jim Thompson's House - craft demonstration

Chinatown

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